Phong Nha: Trekking in the jungle!

I though trekking through the rice fields in Sapa had been good but that was nothing compared to my time in the jungle.... We travelled from Hanoi to Dong hoi, a city on the coast, by night bus and decided to spend a day there before moving inland to the jungle area of Phong Nha. Dong Hoi was lovely and relaxing! We spent the day at a super swish beach resort and dozed in the sun. Well deserved after the night bus! 

After a nice day chilling, we took the public bus from Dong Hoi to Phong Nha. It was the cheapest option to get there and it was also really interesting being the only tourists on the bus. It gave us the chance to see the little villages and typical houses along the way.  We arrived in Phong Nha and were met by Minh, whose house we were staying in. He took me, my rucksack and backpack on his little motorbike a few kilometres up the road to his house. 

Staying with the family was an amazing insight into life in Phong Nha. Minh didn't have much english other than hello but his cute little daughter looked after us. She brought us a huge selection of home cooked food and showed us how to eat it with a lot of pointing to help get the message across! 

While we were eating our meal we were wondering what the pump, pump, pump of dance music was about across the road. This was a tiny little village, but across the road a marquee had been put up, complete with colourful decorations. It turned out that it was her uncle's stag party that night and we were invited to go!! 

I changed into the one nice dress I brought with me and made my way across the road, excited by the thudding music and glaring lights. I love parties!! 

When we went inside the marquee it became apparent very quickly that this was not like an Irish stag! I was dazzled by the lights, the music and aware that a lot of people were staring at these tourists! When one of the guys we met at Minh's motioned for us to sit down we did so gratefully! It was only then that I really took in my surroundings! There were two long lines of tables with the women sitting at one line of  tables and the lads (and us!) at the other line of tables! Now it made sense why all the guys were laughing! Politely we smiled and went to sit with the girls! 

So we sat and quietly watched the entertainment provided... There was a band singing techno-karaoke. It was so loud that it was practically impossible to talk so most people just sat watching the singer. A very strange experience! 

The strange experience became stranger when most people had left the party but the band were still belting out the tunes until silly o clock in the morning! 

I seriously needed to get my sleep because the next day we were going trekking through the jungle with a tour organised by the amazing 'jungle boss' Well, I thought it would be trekking. Trekking, climbing, crawling to be more exact! I knew I was going to the jungle but I guess I expected it to be a little like the jungle book movie! The reality is incomparable! 

The jungle is HOT, the jungle is HUMID, the jungle is HARD WORK! Our guide went ahead slashing branches out of our way with a machete! The track we took was one that had rarely been used. It was dense with trees and plants and briars and sticky plants and thorny plants and plants that look really delicate but that catch your ankle and are as strong as a rope! The result... Me falling over... A lot!!! 

After hours of trekking to the jungle we reached 'The dark cave.' The place is appropriately named... It's a cave, it's really dark! The rocks were really sharp and my trousers were not very strong... The result... I was crawling, terrified through this dark cave with my bum hanging out. I was so scared that I was clinging to the rocks and trying to slide down them rather than actually climb! The result... very torn trousers and a very scratched bum! 

After hours of endless walking and climbing and sweating, being scratched by thorns and bitten by bugs (despite tons of insect repellent) we arrived at another cave. Our guide lit a fire and rustled up a delicious barbecued picnic while we swam through the cave. 

Throughout the day I laughed more than I have ever laughed in my life!! After the first 5 minutes of walking I was bright red in the face, huffing and puffing unable to breathe properly! I turned to Orna who thankfully was a similar shade of scarlet and said I needed a break. We looked to the two other people we were trekking with. The Austrian was tanned and glowing, her hair perfectly smooth. I tried to catch my breath for a second whilst simulataneosuly  trying to pick bits of tree out of my hair. As the day went on the Austrian and the muscular Scot would be miles ahead of us, waiting for us to eventually catch up with them. We were gasping for breath, knocking back piles of water while they did a few lunges in case they got too stiff! The only option was to see the funny side, which we certainly did!! We laughed hysterically much to the Austrian's bemusement! 

The picture above was taken early on in the day. For censorship reasons I couldn't show what my trousers ended up like! They were pretty much a waistband with a few flitters of material hanging down! It was all worth it when we finally emerged from the jungle! I felt a massive sense of achievement! I pushed myself to levels I need knew I was capable of, did things I never thought I would have the courage to do and for to see one of the most beautiful places in the world. 

That evening after the trek we moved to a different homestay for a few nights. This time we got to stay with 'The Jungle Boss.' The place is so peaceful and tranquil, located right in the heart of Phong Nha countryside. The rooms were spotlessly clean and completely bug free! I'm pretty sure I fed all of the bugs in the jungle with my blood during the trek but it  great to know that no one was returning for desert! 

We ate with the boss, his wife and family. They were such warm, kind people with a great sense of fun! The meal we had was like a feast. There were tons of traditional Vietnamese dishes and every one of them tasted gorgeous! There was such a lovely family atmosphere between the three groups of guests and the family. The food was in serving dishes on a colourful mat and we all sat around it on the floor chatting together. That evenibg we sat outside sting cards and drinking rice wine. The boss and his family and friends we met had such a strong impression on me. These people have such a youthful spirit regardless of age. They have a warmth and joyfulness about them that is infectious. 

Having survived the jungle I was ready to return again and see where I was. While trekking through the jungle every moment is so intense that it's hard to concentrate on anything other than where to put your hand or foot! The trees are so thick that it's practically impossible to get a sense of what the jungle actually looks like! I wanted to get a motorbike but the boss said it probably wasn't a good idea... I can ride a bicycle, I can drive a car sure I'm half way there! It's basically a crossbreed of the two! Instead we took his advice and went on a motorbike with a driver. Probably the better idea as the roads were so steep! We went up and down massive hills while jeeps and busses came tearing around the corner! The jungle was such a dramatic place to see! 

My time in Phong Nha was probably my favourite part of Vietnam so far. It is relatively unknown by tourist and so is true to itself. The people were some of the friendliest I have come across. There was a real sense if a small community about the place but as a tourist we were welcomed into that community. So often tourists are exploited and taken advantage of. I entered Phong Nha as a stranger but I left with loads of Facebook friends and memories to last a life time. Phong Mha is certainly a part of my Asian Adventure that I will never forget!